Sunday, May 9, 2010
Road tripping
On Day 3 of an impromptu road trip through the Patagonia, Lake District.... having left San Martin de los Andes on Friday for Bariloche via the Ruta de los Siete Lagos ... hitting practically all seven of the most pristine, glacial lakes, trees of yellow, red and gold set against the snow capped Andes... Lago Lakar, Lago Machonico, Lago Hermoso, Lago Meliquina, Lago Falkner, Lago Espejo. We land up at Villa de Langastura and decide to station ourselves here, at Hosteria Las Ramblas, where our pretty room overlooks the impossibly huge Lago Nahuel Huapi and where we are the only guests because this is the "low" season and summer has ended but ski season has not yet begun (in June, July this place, like Caviahue, will be covered in snow snow snow). Yesterday we venture into Bariloche, the biggest of all the towns I've visited yet here in Patagonia (pop: ~100,000); check out the famous and sprawling Lahua Lahua hotel (est 1902); then tiny little Colonia de Suissa, before meeting up with Christian and Florencia who happen to be in Bariloche too. Drinks, dinner and the night ends at 2 am with us back at Hosteria Las Ramblas in the hilariously wide, pillowed white bed. Today, we are bound for the artisty town of El Bolson, about 2 hours south of Bariloche... where Diego has a good friend Andres who, like him, knows how to fly... so maybe we will fly... see the Andes with all its colors and snow from up above. Then tomorrow, a 15 hour ride awaits in Deigo's trusty 4 wheel drive camionetta back to BsAs... where I will run assorted pre-NYC errands ie like maybe trimming my by-now unruly long hair... or maybe not ...
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Now in San Martin.. soon home again
I'm in the prettily, Swiss-like alpine ski town of San Martin de los Andes by sprawling Lago Lacar, three days now. Realized during my last week in Caviahue how I was crazy to spend my last week in Argentina back in Buenos Aires - much as I love this city. That covering more ground while still in beautiful Patagonia and so near to its Lake District made so much more sense. DUH!! :)
It was hard enough to leave Caviahue so I'm glad at least to still be surrounded by nature, near another grand lake if not any longer near my favorite volcano. My eventful month there ended in the best possible way, with new good friends and the strongest hope to return to them one day soon soon. Marseilla, Nestor, Jorge, Valdo, and of course ... beloved Ginny. We had such great fun together. Funny to think how it all started with this woman calling to me from her window as I got off the bus (with her signature "woooohooooo!"), then me rolling her limited edition Cardon Chevy truck the very next day. Ehem.
We've come a long way, babeee!!! My Dancing Queen-text messaging-Pachamama praying-mate drinking-truck driver cussing-nature loving-Janis Joplin singing- newest dear friend.
After all we'd been through, my last weekend in Caviahue was appropriately CELEBRATORY. First there was my 10k Copohue-Caviahue race, which I dreaded a bit for its by-now notorious loose gravely road. But it was so fine, an exhilarating run against the wind through the desert lunar landscape - capped with friends cheering on along the way & waiting at the finish line. Ahhh, the pleasure of running a race with only 15 other people - when your friends can actually find you amongst the crowd.
AND you get a trophy - which I did (along with practically every one else, but still)! For coming in third of the women. Complete with stage-based ceremony and administrative kisses of congratulations. The race also doubled as a celebration of Caviahue's 25th anniversary and on this - the most perfect and uncharacteristicaly summerlike day - a massive chori-pan bar-b-que was shared by all the town. I had three.
Then that same night, we had a lovely dinner at Marseilla and Nestor's who prepared milanese napolitano and the torta de chocolata of the century. Their home is still under construction, soon to double as a restuarant they hope to open by next summer. Yet despite the bare, cement walls and flourescent light bulb hanging, meals at their place are always so festive and warm. I was glad for one last one before I go.
Now here in San Martin, Caviahue feels already like another time. Back "on the road" again, I am quickly reminded why traveling is so much fun when I meet Kristen at the Hostel Puma and we spend the next 2 days laughing our heads off at assorted, random things. What is the reason we bond so much more quickly, cut through so much bullshit so much faster and develop lasting friendships with people under these most tenuous of circumstances? There are probably several I could list, but whatever they are, it's true I've met the most amazing women on this journey - Lila, Mariola, Mariane, Ginny, now Kristen - and having done so has made it that much more meaningful and eye opening and life affirming and FUN for me.
I am coming home a wiser woman for sure as result of the connections I've made along the way; the travelin' experiences of these past few months; the countries and places I've seen; the things I've done volunteering all about and especially being with Ginny in Caviahue. I feel lucky and blessed to have done every bit of it and ready now too, in a way I wasn't before, to go home to those that await. Or as Ginny puts it, to be "homeward bound to REAL y PROVEN LOVE." Yep, I even (almost) can't wait.
Hasta luego!
It was hard enough to leave Caviahue so I'm glad at least to still be surrounded by nature, near another grand lake if not any longer near my favorite volcano. My eventful month there ended in the best possible way, with new good friends and the strongest hope to return to them one day soon soon. Marseilla, Nestor, Jorge, Valdo, and of course ... beloved Ginny. We had such great fun together. Funny to think how it all started with this woman calling to me from her window as I got off the bus (with her signature "woooohooooo!"), then me rolling her limited edition Cardon Chevy truck the very next day. Ehem.
We've come a long way, babeee!!! My Dancing Queen-text messaging-Pachamama praying-mate drinking-truck driver cussing-nature loving-Janis Joplin singing- newest dear friend.
After all we'd been through, my last weekend in Caviahue was appropriately CELEBRATORY. First there was my 10k Copohue-Caviahue race, which I dreaded a bit for its by-now notorious loose gravely road. But it was so fine, an exhilarating run against the wind through the desert lunar landscape - capped with friends cheering on along the way & waiting at the finish line. Ahhh, the pleasure of running a race with only 15 other people - when your friends can actually find you amongst the crowd.
Then that same night, we had a lovely dinner at Marseilla and Nestor's who prepared milanese napolitano and the torta de chocolata of the century. Their home is still under construction, soon to double as a restuarant they hope to open by next summer. Yet despite the bare, cement walls and flourescent light bulb hanging, meals at their place are always so festive and warm. I was glad for one last one before I go.
Now here in San Martin, Caviahue feels already like another time. Back "on the road" again, I am quickly reminded why traveling is so much fun when I meet Kristen at the Hostel Puma and we spend the next 2 days laughing our heads off at assorted, random things. What is the reason we bond so much more quickly, cut through so much bullshit so much faster and develop lasting friendships with people under these most tenuous of circumstances? There are probably several I could list, but whatever they are, it's true I've met the most amazing women on this journey - Lila, Mariola, Mariane, Ginny, now Kristen - and having done so has made it that much more meaningful and eye opening and life affirming and FUN for me.
I am coming home a wiser woman for sure as result of the connections I've made along the way; the travelin' experiences of these past few months; the countries and places I've seen; the things I've done volunteering all about and especially being with Ginny in Caviahue. I feel lucky and blessed to have done every bit of it and ready now too, in a way I wasn't before, to go home to those that await. Or as Ginny puts it, to be "homeward bound to REAL y PROVEN LOVE." Yep, I even (almost) can't wait.
Hasta luego!