Wind

We got our first taste of the big bad Patagonia wind today, on our trek to Laguna Torre. Coming up over the final mounds of boulders upon the glacial lake that was our destination it suddenly picked up something fierce and we spent lunch hunkered behind a makeshift wall of stones we found stacked there, munching on avocado and cheese sandwhiches and watching a bird repeatedly attempt to fly against it, to absolutely no avail. In his introduction to Chatwins In Patagonia, Nicholas Shakespeare notes this:

You know you are in Patagonia when you see rodados patagonicos, the basalt pebbles left behind by glaciers, and the jarilla, the low bush that is its dominant flora. Patagonia may also be described by its climate. The wind that blows with terrible force from October to March - in Chatwins expression, [stripping men raw] - made Antoine de Saint-Exuperys plane fly backwards instead of forward.

But my favorite excerpt from the book is Chatwins own which reading again now that I am here sums up this place perfectly. It is from a letter to his wife that he wrote while here in 1976:

On no previous journey am I conscious of having done more. Patagonia is as I expected but more so, inspiring violent bouts of love and hate. Physically it is magnificent, a series of graded steps or barricas which are the cliff lines of prehistoric seas and unusually full of fossilised oyster shells... In the east, you suddenly confront the great wall of the cordillera with bright turquoise lakes (some are milky white and others a pale jade green) with unbelievable colors to the rocks. Sometimes it seems that the Almightly has been playing at making Napolitan ice cream.

Now that we have tasted of this wind, Staci Jon and I feel a little less naive about what potentially (most likely, inevitably) awaits in Torre del Paine. Also, having hiked a 15 miles to Fitz Roy then 9 miles to Laguna Torre the next day, we feel we have built up some good physical stamina. So there are no illusions here and we like to believe being in El Chalten has helped us get a bit more mentally prepared. But today, we will be sitting on buses all day making our way back to Puerto Natales and looking forward to the rest.

Patagonia - Day 1 - 4

Coming upon the end of Day 4 in Patagonia. In El Chalten to be exact, where we just spent the day on our very first trek to Glacieres Los Tres to see the most spectacular, most highly recommended view of Mount Fitz Roy.

We had very good weather, the first very sunny, aprx 60 degree day. Set out at 9:30 am for the trailhead straight from our little backpacking hostel, La Rancho Grande. Perfect T shirt weather. Words cannot describe how spectacular it is here, the granite, snowcapped peaks, the rapidly changing vistas from lakes to glaciers to desert scrub, the wide open, most expansive skies I have ever seen, the amazing scents of earth and wind, then everything together the most intense, most spectacular of combinations. I am taking loads of pictures, trying hoping to convey what it is I am seeing, even Macchu Piccu not this intense, not this consistently heart pacingly exhilirating.

Tomorrow we do another recommended day hike, to Mount Torre. Days here so long, the sunlight lasts till about 9 pm so no worries about running out of time. But it adds to the trippiness of the ageless landscape. The sun so bright, the sky so blue at such unexpected times and you are on a perpetual sun-induced high, despite any physical exertion and fatigue. Coupled by the mental trippiness of so much expansivenss of space all around. So it is like jetlag on acid (yes, like I know).

So yes so far, Staci Jon and I are having an amazing time. And today she had a pretty special birthday with the Fitz Roy trek. We are dorming it at the hostel and she has the top bunk, sweet girl. And today twas was so nice to get out. Been sitting on our asses (mostly) since meeting on our flight from Santiago because Patagonia bus rides are so very long: first Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales (4 hours), then Puerto Natales - El Calafate (aprx 6 hrs plus Chile/Argentinia border control), then El Calafate - El Chalten (about 3 hours). We were so excited to wake up today, don our fabulous pleated hiking pants, and actually TREK. Friday, we head at last to Torres del Paine and will stay at refugios along the way + 1 night tent camping. Supposed to be one of the most spectular hikes in the world, we are praying praying the weather will be kind to us. El Chalten a good omen so far.

Love love love (and happiness) from Patagonia, Karen
(Tuesday, 11/24 10:16 pm)

Santiago

I loved Santiago. It´s a truism to say the best way to get to know a place is through it´s people but it is. In the mere 36 hours I had to spend I was able to absorb the energy and vibe of the city, thanks to my (new) friend Patrick who lives there. Saw a few sites too - namely the Plaza des Armes, Cathedral, and the seafood Mercado - but the highlights involved ¨once¨ (a relaxed social fingerfood/tapas/wine affair) at his friend´s flat the night I arrived complete with several bottles of Chilean wine; brunch the following morning at an outdoor cafe in beautiful Bella Artiste; a short visit to the contemporary Chilean art museum; an afternoon at the very lively Santiago bar ¨La Piojera¨ (aka The Flea) where I experienced the local drinks Terremoto and Pipeño (fermented wine with sweet something); and a visit to the street food market where I had a typical completo Italiano.

I loved Santiago and hope one day to be back, for longer. Also I am a new fan of the art of ¨hosting¨ travelers because I´ve had the pleasure of seeing what an amazing difference it can make in helping someone experience a new city.

Dashing now to catch my 10:30 flight to Punto Arenas... Adios!!

Whiling the afternoon away...

I have spent the past four hours (and counting) in front of the computer on this, my last day in Cusco. Feeling my brain going comfortably numb through the achingly slow process of uploading 367 pictures, including a few videos which isn´t helping matters. It would be nice to send some in real time I think and also, my dad keeps harassing me for photos, so here I am. I am a good daughter and also I can relate. Blog notwithstanding, visuals do tell a gabazillion words.

And besides I have some time to kill. Checked out of the Hostel Santa Maria this morning but my Arequipa bus doesn´t leave until 8:30 pm. Was hoping to visit the Inca Museum and also Qoricancha ruins before I go (and maybe also get an aromatherapy/swedish/hot stone massage because the woman on the street said 1 hour only costs 20 soles ($8 US) and what could be better before a long bus ride). But we shall see what time I have remaining when this photo thing is finally done. My consolation is the big open skies of Patagonia where I am guessing I will be computer-free for much of the next two weeks.

Meanwhile, behind me, it is raining again. The Internet cafe has an open glassfree storefront and I am sitting closest to the street and can feel the breeze coming in and smell the rain, which has predictably poured almost every day here in Cusco - such a far cry from the hot summery sun of Arequipa. Meanwhile, I am also getting really hungry. (Oh YEY, less then 50 more photos to go!!!! Well, I´ve wisened up and deleted the videos for the purpose of this upload. So things are moving along less painfully.)

Next I write will mostly likely be from Santiago, Chile where I will be spending Thursday-Friday eve. I am staying with Patrick, who we met on the Inca Trail and who believes in sharing his couch with world travelers (see www.couchsurfing.com - what a great idea!). He´s from Texas and is spending the year teaching English in Santiago - also such a great idea, I think. Hmmm so much to think about...

Besitos.

ps. Whitewater rafting on the Rio Urubamba yesterday was beautiful, if wet and cold. And yes there are pictures... ! :)

Lazy Cusqueñean days

Life back in Cusco, post- Inca Trail has been rilllllllly relaxing...

Yesterday John and I did the Circuito Turistico de Valle Sagrado via tour bus from Cusco. It was nice to sit on our small bus, lazily watching the sprawling Andean scenery beneathe ever-changing configurations of sun and clouds outside the window, and hopping off occassionally to explore the ruins and markets that make up the tour:

From the villages of Pisac to Urubamba where we stopped for lunch (mmm.... pollo and Inka Cola!) then onwards to Ollantaytambo then Chinchero (of Peruvian textile fame, where we had a mini demonstration on llama wool weaving and dying in the growing dusk), then back to Cusco by evening.

One would think that after the ruins of the Inca Trail and then Macchu Piccu that I would be a little bit Inca´d out - so to speak. But the hilltop ruins of Pisaq and Ollantaytambo with their amazing stonework and agricultural terracing (for which the Incas are so famous), were still so enthralling. We dutifully followed our guide Mark Anthony up and down the steep, stone stairs for much of the afternoon, out of breathe but gladly soaking it all in. Altogether we were a nice smallish group of about 15 - including 2 solo female travelers who had come from Quebec and the Netherlands and like me, were traveling for about 2 months; 1 nice American from California named Dave; and a young couple from Scotland that were coming upon the end of their 6 month journey through South America and had lots of good advice and words of enthusiasm to offer on Patagonia... where, as you all know, is where I´m headed next (!!).

But for now Cusco it is. And having discovered a *super* high speed Internet cafe, we are enjoying a pretty mellow afternoon and rest of the day. John leaves for La Paz in the morning and I on Wednesday for Santiago, via 10 hour night bus back to Arequipa to catch a Thursday morning flight. But I do plan to end my stay here with a bang, and have just signed up for whitewater rafting trip down a portion of the Rio Urumbaba - allegedly one of the most popular rafting trips in South America and also, very importantly, not too scary this time of year. Only 110 soles (aprx $35 US) includes gear, lunch and ... a post rafting sauna!

So be sure to stay tuned for an update about THAT little next adventure of mine :)

Love always, from Cusco (for now)

Karen

Inca Trail to Machu Piccu - yes I finally did it :) !

We approached Macchu Piccu very early the morning of Friday, November 13th (!) in the rain. It was 4 days and ~40 kilometers since we started, and the giddy glee among us trekkers gazing down upon it from the Sun Gate made it feel like a late afternoon happy hour session - not 6:25 am. We had gathered at the Wiñay Wayna gaurd post before sunrise, a posse of wet ponchos and cyclopes headlamps awaiting permission to begin the much anticipated final 6k leg of the trail. Authorization forms were shown and we were waved through and all of a sudden Machu Piccu was just another 2 hours away!!! Some trekkers (specifically, a group of rakish 20-something Aussie boys who had ¨shadowed¨us on the trail for the past 3 days sporting striped knee socks and 70s style running shorts) ran past us on the windy, cliff hugging path. They, like a few others, were trying to get to Wayna Picchu, at the back of the ruins to get a slightly different (perhaps, better?) view. But John and I and our trusty guide ¨high five¨Jhossi (who really did like to high five us approxiamately 5 times/day in an apparent effort to keep our spirits high) were happy with the steady approach we had planned...

And there it was. We were lucky that morning. The huge puffy white clouds were still low and the air misty from the rain which had, by then, tapered off to a light drizzle. But visibility was good. Just the day before, the trail had been one big cloud forest with mist and fog obstructing some of the otherwise majestic views. Though all in all - as Jhossi kept reminding us - we had been very lucky with the weather on the trail, starting it out on a brilliantly sunny day and encountering only occassional clouds and rain throughout. The temperature had also been appropriately cool for the notoriously tough Day 2, which had included a 3 hour ascent to Warmiwañusca (aka ¨Dead Woman´s Pass¨- ha) at 4318 meters above sea level.
Standing there at the Sun Gate, lucky was how I felt. Over our 4 days on the Inca Trail, we had seen the landscape change from beautiful cacti-filled desert running along the Rió Urubamba to crazy dense jungle forests against a backdrop of snow capped mountains. We had also visited several other smaller Inca ruins, seen a few green lakes, many llamas and cows, and at one point too, in the yard of one small house, one very funny black pig. And it would be impossible to talk about how lucky I felt on our amazing journey without also mentioning the small fleet of porters that accompanied us on the trail at incomprehensible speeds carrying about 25 kilos each of gear and food on their backs every single day so that by the time John, Jhossi and I arrived at our designated lunch- or camp-site, tents were already pitched and food was already ready. I appreciated them with such gratitude and awe every time...
And after 4 days on the Inca Trail it was gratifying to know that we had arrived at last. At that hour, it was still just us trekkers and the mood was celebratory with individuals, and couples, and groups of friends striking a pose on of the well positioned rocks for their requisite photo with Machu Piccu in the background. The site itself was still about another hour away on the trail past the Sun Gate, and by the time we arrived there the sun was shining, and the tourists were beginning to arrive on buses from the nearby town of Aguas Caliente, where they had stayed overnight. We spent the next few hours roaming the ancient ¨lost city¨of Machu Piccu itself. Jhossi gave us a nice tour through the assorted beautiful ceremonial baths, fountains, towers and ceremonial rocks that made up the Inca ruins. And soon we were done and on a train back to Ollaytantambo and then a taxi through the Urubamba Valley back to Cusco. We were at our hostel by 7 pm where we (greatly) enjoyed hot showers before going out on the town with a few other people we had met on the Inca Trail who were also staying nearby. It was a great end to an amazing week.

Did you know today is Puno Day?!!

Arrived in Puno this afternoon smack in the middle of Puno Day - the town´s annual celebration of the birth of Manco Capac, the first Inca. Haha we couldn´t have planned it better if we tried. The town is one big parade, full of marching bands and dancing children in feathery glittering costumes and smiling women looking on in bowler hats. Apparently the festivities last a week. Though probably the parade and celebrations have something to do with my first impression so far, I am really digging the vibe of Puno, the streets more windy and maze-like than Arequipa begging to be explored, the feeling in the streets more communal and cheerful. At the very outskirts of town too is Lake Titicaca, which we caught a shimmery, blue glimpse of through the hills as our bus drove on in. Tomorrow we shall set early sail on it. At 3830 m, it is the world´s highest navigable lake and all afternoon I have been feeling a slight headache from the altitude - though really not so bad. Hmmm maybe tonight I will try alpaca steak...?

Puno-bound

John and I bought our tickets to Puno today, leaving Arequipa on an five hour long 8 am bus tomorrow, Thursday. We shall be in Puno for nearly two days to visit Lake Titicaca and take the boat out to the famous Uros and Taquilla islands. And from there, we will head to Cusco sometime Saturday night. I´ve already bought my ticket to Santiago as well where I will be meeting and continuing on with SJ to Patagonia. Everything is moving so fast! I will miss it here (so much) but look forward to the next chapter(s)...

Trekking en el Cañon del Colco

My watch reads 4:13 am when someone pounds on the door. It is the tin door of the small freestanding cement room where we´ve been sleeping the past 2 nights - so the pounding reverberates off the steeped corrugated tin roof and booms nicely throughout. Oh no. I´ve slept through the tiny alarm I had set for 3:38 am. That would have left me 22 minutes to dress and brush my teeth before meeting our guide at the designated 4 am departure time. As it was I now had -13 mintues. Who knew I could dress, wash and attach a backpack to my back in the dark in such record time?

By 4:35 am we were on our way. John, Kate, Leon, Danni and I dutifully following our guide, Gladys, singlefile under the pre-dawn moonlight sky. We were on our way out of the Colca Canyon where we had just spent the previous day enjoying the warm hospitality of Doris and her family in the tiny village of Malata. Doris runs a small hostel there, but it felt like we were staying in her home. The ¨hostel¨ was a compilation of 3 very simple cement rooms each with a few prepared beds atop of an earth floor and a single light bulb dangling above. All 3 rooms were situated along a ridge that ran above and alongside the Rio Colca below. We had arrived too late from our trek into the Canyon Saturday evening to see where we were but awoke Sunday morning to a breathtaking view of cows and donkeys grazing in green mesas, against sunlit canyon walls. A single faucet and bucket stood on the path outside our room so this was my view as I brushed my teeth that morning.

The rest of the day was our reward for the crazy hike into the canyon the day before. We had arrived via Chivay and finally the (very) (very) small town of Cabanaconde before beginning the continuous snake trail down to Malata below. Old Peruvian women with long black braids and weathered faces, wearing the traditional embroidered full skirts and small hats strolled the streets. The sun was very hot by the time we started the trek down and our happy astonishment at the magnificent views was quickly overshadowed by fatigue. A small oasis with little blue pools beckoned from below but instead of getting closer seemed to get farther away with every curve of the trail (was it just a mirage??). What should have taken us 2 hours took us about 3 but we did arrive in the end for our promised dip, some watermelon slices and a deep breath - before continuing from there on to Malata where we finally arrived at Doris´doorstep shortly after sunset.

So Sunday had been our ¨day of rest¨to enjoy Malata itself. The village was simple and tiny and lovely to see. A small church stood in the center and farms with maize and grazing cows and donkeys scattered throughout. One neat one story building with brightly painted yellow walls was the village clinic and another was the grade school that served the small children of Malata and other surrounding villages. The older children went to school in Chivay returning to the village only on the weekends, to avoid having to trek into and out of the canyon more than twice a week. There was also a church.

After our stroll through the village with Gladys, we returned to Doris´house where we spent the rest of Sunday enjoying the deep canyon breezes, and learning how to make the traditional maize drink chicha and prepare llama wool to be died from Doris herself. The day´s grande finale was when the lot of us - boys included - got wear the traditional Peruvian skirts and vests and hats and learn a little Peruvian dance. It was fun and funny and a fine end to a day full of immersing ourselves in an altogether different and facinating world.

All of which led us to that early early pre dawn trek back out of the canyon Monday morning. We were trying to make it up and out as quickly as possible to beat the sun getting too hot. Danni, Kate and Leon opted for donkeys. But John and I - who would also be hiking the Inca Trail within the week - were keen on getting some good preparation/practice out of it. It was probably the hardest, continuously uphill hike I´ve ever done but beat the sun I did (more or less) and by 8:15 am was back in Cabanaconde where we started just 2 days before, happy happy and tired.

All in all it was a beautiful 3 day experience. I have been lucky enough to see so much beauty in this world already, but the landscape in the southern desert canyonlands of Peru really did take my breathe away. I hope to provide actual photos soon; hoping this helps convey a little bit of what it was like for now.

Love,
Karen