My new plan for the Annapurna Circuit

And so the inquiries I initiated just a few hours ago have resulted in my starting the AC trek TOMORROW.  Which seems pretty sudden as it's not the timing I had in mind but also perfect because I found an organized group that is leaving first thing in the morning ...

I'll be doing the trek with Earthbound Expeditions, based here in Kathmandu, starting in Besi Sahar tomorrow March 29th, returing April 16th to Pokhara.  The rough AC "itinerary" they've provided is below.  I'm not expecting frequenting the email so expect a massive "mission accomplished" email on April 16th.  Yes I am feeling full of good cheer, optimism and hope :)

Much love,
Me


Annapurna circuit trek - 17 days details

• Day 01, March 29  Drive from Kathmandu to Besi Shahar  then to Bhulbule and trek to Bahundanda (1430m/4691ft). Approx. 3 hours after drive
• Day 02, March 30 Bahundanda to Chamje(1560m/5118ft). Approx. walking 5 to 6 hours, 
• Day 03, March 31  Chamje to Bagarchap via Dhararpani (1810m/5938ft) Approx. walking 5:30 to 6 hours each day
• Day 04, April 1 Bagarchap to Chame
• Day 05, April 2  Chame Pisang (3190m/10466ft). Approx. walking 5 to 6 hours
• Day 06, April 3 Pisang to  Manang (3500m/11483ft)
• Day 07, April 4  One day rest in Manang for acclimatization, walk around it is Himalan Shangri-la
• Day 08, April 5  Manang to Yak kharka (4090m/1341ft). 
• Day 09, April 6  Yak Kharka to Throung Phedi (4441m/14570ft) Approx. walking 4 to 5 hours
• Day 10, April 7  Throung Phedi to Muktinath (3802m/11512ft) crossing Throung-la pass(5416m/17769ft);  Approx. walking 8:30 to 9 hours 
• Day 11, April 8 Muktinath to Marpha village via Jomsom (2665m/8743ft). Approx. walking 5:30 to 6 hours
• Day 12, April 9 Marpha to Ghasa (2080m/6824ft). Approx. walking 5:30 to 6 hours
• Day 13, April 10  Ghasa to Tatopani (Natural hotspring - ENJOY!) –(1110m/13361ft) 
• Day 14, April 11  Tatopani to Shikha (1935m/5859ft) Approx. walking 5 to 5:30 hours
• Day 15, April 12  Shikha to Ghorepani (2834m/9298ft) -  base of Poon hill . Approx. walking 4:30 to 5 hours
• Day 16, April 13  Ghorepani(2834m/9298ft) to Poon Hill (3210m/10531ft) ,  trek to Nyapul and drive to Pokhara by car for an hour. Approx. walking 6 hours
• Day 17, April 14 : trek to Nyapul and drive to Pokhara by car for an hour. Approx. walking 6 hours

Upon arriving in Kathmandu

I will not lie and say arriving in a totally foreign city where someone you've never met is waiting with a sign and the rest from here on out is really just up to you, is always great fun. 

Traveling alone is inspiring and fortifying in its own way and the challenges it brings are exciting to me, which is why I do it. I love the specificity of it, and getting to figure out for myself how to get from Point A to B, and the special satisfaction all of it brings.  I love the exposure traveling alone offers to people and places I might not otherwise get to experience, or at least not in the same way. 

That said, I envy Alice and Paulie when I meet them first off at the Yoga Center as soon as I arrive (www.yogainnepal.com.np). They are great friends from England who have been traveling together these past few months in India and Nepal, and are full of good travel advice.  I am hugely grateful for their warm reception, and we share the pomegranates and bananas they bought at the market while sitting and chatting away on their tent stoop (yes we are sleeping in tents). 

Last night - my first - brings with it deep gratitude as well for two things I remembered to pack: my headlight and my earplugs. I had no idea but Kathmandu is a city prone to power outages.  The handwritten sign posted for guests by the lone computer at the Yoga Center tells you when power will be on so you can check email: not that often.  So the headlight came in very handy after after it got dark at about 6 pm.  I was so tired I fell into a deep dark sleep after dinner - despite the dog barking orchestral symphony rock concert jam that began around then.  When the neighborhood roosters kicked in at around 4 am however I decided to give the earplugs a try and they WORKED.  Hooray!

The Yoga Center is perched on a hill on the outskirts of Kathmandu and today I actually did venture out, fully restored and rested from my trip, after lunch.  My yoga teacher - also the guy who basically runs this place - decided to accompany me, and proved a very helpful and knowledgeable guide about Swayambhu where we went - also known as the Monkey Temple for yes, obvious reasons.  Now I am in the city center, in the touristy Thamel neighborhood, waiting to make inquiries regarding the Annapurna Circuit and travels to Pokhara - probably tomorrow.

And now off to make inquiries I go... 

In the Delhi airport...

......passing good time in some alternate universe lounge space that for $40 includes a lavish food buffet, complimentary chair massages, showers, computer stations and Wifi.  I have about 7 more hours to kill and the lounge deal only lasts for three so I will probably end up waiting the rest of it out back at the gate - also to ensure I don't miss my final connection!  Airports are trippy to begin with but being in a cool, dimly lit airport lounge after 15 hours on a plane with India (India!!!) just outside the window is especially so. 

 

Getting here has been smooth so far. I even enjoyed the one hour I had to kill at the gate in Brussels (it's morning!) and the flight to Delhi was mostly empty (it's night!).  I was expecting a bigger logistical nightmare with my Visa when I got here, but was just politely ushered through to the International Transfer area when I showed them my boarding pass then followed the signs (past shiny sprawling Duty Free, Versace, Mac, Mango and other assorted glam shopping stores) to the lounge.  It's funny to spot the trekkers among the vacationing and business traveling crowd by their shoewear, those who like me managed to avoid packing their heavy hiking shoes by wearing them.  I am not noticing too many of them right now in the lounge though.

 

Now it's the dead of night, a game of cricket is on TV and the lounge is bustling.  I am jetlagged but wide awake and hungry and will go visit the buffet (for breakfast? lunch?). 

 

I am guessing next time I write will be from Kathmandu.  Bye for now...

Nepal bound

And so once again I am off.  This time for Nepal. My driving motivation is the Annapurna Circuit - winner of the "25 things to do before I die" list on one of my favorite travel blogs Uncornered Market complete with 4,576 meters elevation gain in 9 days; 112 miles walked in about 15 - 20 days; and about 50 Himalayan villages crossed along the entire way.  More or less.  You can read more about my source of inspiration on:  http://www.uncorneredmarket.com/2008/06/himalayan-trekking-stew-a-recipe-for-a-life-experience

Yes, this is what started it all whilst one innocent high-powered, career frenzied, and (relatively) well dressed New York City day I was surfing the Web.  Next thing I know this is the direction towards which I am heading.  Work is but work, and life is but short, blah blah blah.  Noone can argue the impact of an adventure of a lifetime.  Truly.  All the rest of it will always just be there waiting to be dealt with.  

And so it shall ... but in the meantime I am heading to Nepal alone with nary a notion of what to expect.  I may do this trek with a group, or I may do it alone, perhaps with random people I have yet to meet and pick up along the way in Kathmandu and/or Pokahara.  At the moment, the biggest hurdle I forsee is my 8 hour layover in Delhi, arriving 10:30 pm Saturday 3/26, departing for Kathmandu 6 am or so the following morning Sunday 3/27. Ugh.  Thank god for my new prematurely birthday gifted Kindle (thanks Family!).  I will either be sleeping on the Indian airport terminal floor or simultaneously plowing through Anna Karenina, Shantaram, Jane Eyre, and the collected works of Theroux and John Keats during this time.  We shall see. 

Either way I am excited.  To be sure.  I know it will be challenging and cold and tough at times too, and also - needless to say, ehem - that I will be a sight for sore eyes.  But all of this potential pain and unshowered misery will occur against a backdrop of splendor that is the Nepalese Himalayas and the culture I will encounter.  If I get through it in one piece I will remember the month ahead that awaits forever.  I will also be eating a lot of dal bhaat.  Look it up.  Cuz apparently this will sustain me.  Or kill me.  Stay tuned!!!!

You can read more on where I am headed via these links, should you desire:

http://wikitravel.org/en/Annapurna_Circuit

http://www.enepaltrekking.com/nepal_trekking/annapurna_circuit_trekking.php

http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/03/21/travel/21nepal.html?pagewanted=4&sq=nepal&st=cse&scp=2

Will send more dispatches (as possible) from along the way. 

Much love, 

Always, 

(Travelin') me