Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Pretty Antigua


Antigua's Parque Central
Antigua is as pretty as they say, in that quintessential way old colonial towns with their old colonial ruins, rain slicked cobblestone streets and small boutique shops are just so ... pretty.

Despite hearing about how pretty Antigua is from so many people on this trip it still comes as a surprise. Antigua, Guatamala is nothing like what I've experienced of Central America so far during my seven weeks in Nicaragua, with its rugged rural beauty and also frequently overwhelming heat. Antigua’s appeal is more like candy, and I spend the afternoon walking to soak it all in and also to stretch out my legs from the 20 hours it took to get here on a bus from Managua late last night (never again). With the fresh baked smell of the panderias; the vibrant colors of its handicrafts and painted facades; the cool ~1500m Highland Valley air, Antigua is an all encompassing sensory experience. Gillian and Tanya told me Guatamala was "magical" and already on my first day here I see their point.

Rainy Antigua streets

Already I can also see how hard it will be to “squeeze” Guatamala in. Coming here was a last minute decision, inspired by another traveler in Granada, NR a day before my designated flight home. The problem with having the so-called freedom to travel is that it easily becomes addicting - especially the longer you go. Exposure to other travelers only makes it worse, fueling the desire for further exploration with tales of their own.

And so I have come with only 9 days to experience one more country, and emotionally bracing myself for the fact that I will leave here wanting more. I have planned and re-planned my remaining days in my head multiple times and each potential itinerary is different. Is it worth taking a whole day to go see Chichicastenango? Better to spend more time in Antigua and/or Lake Atitlan instead? Should I visit a working coffee farm, that jade jewelry maker Robin and Aubrey told me about, or go see the lava flowing in active Volcan Pacaya? What is the best possible way to minimize the impact of a 5 hour bus to Xela then back to Guatamala City in time for my flight?

Guatamala is a big country full of wonders in all corners, including the famous ruins of Tikal and natural beauty of Semuc Champey. So I will focus my measly 9 days on just scratching the surface of its northwestern Highlands region instead, starting with the World Heritage Site that is Antigua then heading westward to Lago Atitlan. The crux and grand finale will be a 3 day trek from Xela to Atitlan with the volunteer-based tour organization QuetzelTrekkers over Memorial Day Weekend. Then Guatamala City. Then home by June 1st. Then turning 39 (!!!!!).

Phew. Yes this is the current plan.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Harry is back!


Harry made this in 15 minutes
And this time I get a gift, a giant palm heart he whips up before my eyes. My crush is official. 

We meet again almost exactly where we met the last time, while I'm dining at one of the outdoor eateries in front of the Cathedral in Granada. Yes I have returned - no, not for Harry! - but for the closer, more familiar ground of Granada over Leon, which would have required a longer bus ride through and north of Managua. The main draw would have been checking out one more town and also "sand surfing" down Cerro Negro. Instead I will return to swim in the giant crater lake that I loved so much the first time and maybe take a day trip to the crafts market at Masaya. I will see how I feel tomorrow morning. I might not.

Yes seven weeks later I am getting a bit lazy. Or rather, just ready to stop traveling and start crackin'. I left NYC thinking to see Central America and return having  visited only a handful of places in Nicaragua. I had kept things loose to see where the wind would take me when I arrived, who I might meet, and what stories they might have to share for inspiration... 

Demonstrating one of Harry's giant origami grasshoppers

As it turns out the wind and the people I met compelled me to stay put, embarking on journeys to be had exactly where I was. And so I have.

Saturday I fly home excited to see where the wind  takes me next.