Shower redux

Coming home from Nepal, 2010

I take my first shower back home at my dad's house in Queens because he and Esther pick me up at the airport the night before despite a delay in Miami that gets me in at 2 am.  Thank goodness for such parents.  I see him looking for me in the passenger pickup area at JFK before he sees me so that when he turns around I am standing right there and his face breaks into such a smile before he gives me the biggest hug. This part never gets old.

My shower the next morning is a classic perk of home, with water set at exactly the right temperature and a white porcelain tub with nary a remnant of crusty soap or its previous inhabitants.  I have two plush towels to dry off with and a fluffy mat to step on to as I exit. Lathering up on this first shower back home makes me recall the wide variety of other showers taken on this trip:

Biodegradable toiletries

• The first and much beloved "sun shower" of my bungalow casita at Equilibrio, set at the end of a narrow stone path outside my back bathroom door and tucked among the banana trees. The water was always one temperature - near scalding - because April was still dry season and the pipes always exposed to the sun. I sometimes wondered about openings in the bamboo fence surrounding my little backyard but that didn't prevent me from drying off just standing there under the hot sun afterwards. The slightly cooler night showers were also nice especially when the stars were out. 

• What can only be called the "volcano shower" at Inan Itah with its full frontal view of Volcan Conception. I tried to keep my eyes on it as much as possible while showering in order to make the most of the opportunity. The shower's only downside was the ledge crammed with long forgotten soaps and shampoos, and having to bring mine up from the hammock dorm instead of being able to store it there. Also sometimes my feet would get muddy again if I accidentally stepped off unto the unpaved path instead of one of the rocks.  Still, having a volcano to stare at more than made up for such things.

Showering at Inan Itah

• Dirty hostel showers like the one at Hostel Oasis in Granada - unless you were the first one in after the cleaning crew which rarely happened.  By the time I usually got into it, it was obvious about 20 other people had beaten me to it. 

• The weird shower in San Pedro. Although my room was cheap and included the luxury of a private bath, the shower totally sucked.  Getting wet enough to lather and rinse involved walking around under the nozzle to accumulate water. A mysterious appendage attached to the nozzle did nothing but spray the entire bathroom (as opposed to me) when I tried to figure it out, and dismantled it by mistake instead.  I'll take dirty shower over shower with shitty water pressure any day.

• GOOD hostel showers like my last at El Hostel in Antigua before coming home. Despite being communal (there was one for boys vs. girls though!) the shower stalls were clean, tiled and the water temperature and pressure perfect.  By now the nights and early mornings were quite chilly so having hot water was key. When I left Antigua to visit Laguna Atitlan for a few days, El Hostel's hot showers was a big factor in my decision to come back - along with the beautiful complimentary breakfast and amazing people that worked there, of course

Thinking about my various shower experiences over these past two months conjures up as well as anything the experiences themselves - where I was, who I was hanging out with, what the weather was like, how I was feeling. My wide variety of shower experiences is also a helpful reminder that the comforts of home - as clean and luxurious as they may be -  are just one of many potential other experiences just waiting to be had.

:)

Winding down in Antigua

The last day of this trip, a day to end all days.  Full of sun and crisp perfect weather and it doesn't rain even once. Instead the usual heavy afternoon clouds roll in around 2 pm full of wet portent but then move on. As if they know.

After much surveying of fellow travelers and internal deliberations, I decided to stay in Antigua instead of heading to Guatamala City for my final day, to see what I could see there. Yes, it would have been nice to get to know the capital a bit and some of the country's finest museums and the hostel where I would have stayed (included nice conveniences like a complimentary city tour and ride to the airport!) .... but returning to Antigua after my few days away at Laguna Atitlan felt surprisingly like coming home. I was just so happy to be back, on such pretty, familiar territory.

Once back, I also finally (!) got to experience a Guatamalan volcano. After two previously thwarted attempts due to rain or poor "registration," I found a group leaving Antigua for nearby Volcan Pacaya the very next morning (at 6 am to be precise about it). Antigua is surrounded by several volcanos, including Volcan Agua which at 3766 meters dominates the southern end of the city, serving as a constant, handy point of orientation. Also visible is Volcan de Fuego, which coincidentally erupted in full flowing lava swing just the other day. Acetanango is the "big Mama" at 3974 meters and plenty of local tour agencies offer overnight trips so you can watch the sun rise before making your way back down.

Pacaya moonscape

By these standards, Pacaya is puny though still impressive - and also quite active.  It last erupted almost exactly 2 years ago and plumes of hot smoke are everywhere. It's a popular volcano because it's so accessible -in just 1 1/2 hours we were on top, surrounded by surreal moonscape views of black volcanic ash and lava rock. It is like being on another planet. Only with marshmellows, which we gaily toasted over the earthy fire.

In addition to adding another Central American volcano to my list, I finally also made it Cafe No Se. Cafe No Se is really a bar, where Ilegal Mescal is served in its own special room with a sign warning "2 shot limit" as you enter. The other really amazing and special thing about Cafe No Se is its location directly across the street from El Hostel, my Antigua home away from home. I haven't had as much fun in a hole in the wall tequila bar and met as many fun, cool, open, gregarious and also inebriated people while listening to great live music, as I did during my 2 nights at Cafe No Se. Where, once again, I almost got talked into postponing my flight home.

Cafe No Se

Other highlights resulting from choosing to stay in Antigua: wandering its streets some more; revisiting el mirador; yoga at Hotel Panza Verda; talking mangos with the fruit stand lady; hearing Luis and Jancho play at the Rainbow Cafe; bonding with fellow El Hostel mate Jaime; discovering rellenitos de platanos; and absoring the charm and warmth of Antigua deeper into my psyche for future reference.                                  

I can see why so many expats come here then never leave. I am sure I would have found Guatamala City gratifying in its special own way. But Antigua was what I needed more. I leave Guatamala the right combination of happy and sad, for inspiring future visits.

Jaime y yo

Note: click here for more Antigua highlights captured