Thursday, February 11, 2010

The cloud forests of Mindo

On Sunday, Tim and I planned to meet up in the nearby cloud forests of Mindo, population 2500.  World famous for its spectacular assortment of birds (~400 species), butterflies, and orchids, and also just a 2 1/2 hour bus ride away from Quito, Mindo seemed a good way to maximize Tim's short visit to the country beyond the city. 

That morning, whilst explaining the bus route to me, Fabian had the inspired idea to give me a lift there instead on his motorcycle. It was a bright, sunny morning after a full day of rain, and a bike ride sounded like a GREAT way to make up for my previously comatose bedridden state. It was an exhilirating ride through the surrounding hills and jungles of Quito and a great way to make a grand entrance into tiny, quiet Mindo - where soon enough everyone did know my name (though surely being one of just 4 gringas there during the low tourist season helped). 

The Lonely Planet compares Mindo's "laid back" vibe to that of a "coastal surf spot" and the town, with its unpaved dirt roads, handful of family run shops, midafternoon rainshowers and hushed sense of quiet, felt very laid back. And everywhere on the hills all around was the lush, green forest interspersed with wispy clouds and fog.  Our first morning consisted of a crack of dawn bird watching tour, led by William and his khaki birdwatching hat and a telescope almost as long as he was tall slung over his shoulder.  We followed William up the long road leading out of the town center, across the Rio Mindo and up into the hills, dutifully scrambling to point our binoculars in the direction of whatever unseen speck he had managed to spot in the dense trees.  Thanks to William we caught sight of a satisfying number of pretty birds, including the very special choco tucan who's nose really is spectacular, especially mid flight.



After what felt like hours (!!) later, Tim and I were returned to the center of town.  The sun was up and the day was already midafternoon hot although it was only 10 am.  After a few hours rest and a lunch, we headed back up that same road into the forest, this time for a Mindo canopy tour and a few hours of zipping high up over the forest in the light afternoon rain.  It felt nice and refreshing once we were convinced the equipment attaching us to the cables wasn't as dubious as it looked (at around cable #6 out of 10).

But between the bike ride and the beauty of Mindo, another key highlight was the great people we met there, especially the two couples (American wife, Ecuadorian husband) who had come to open up some manner of cafe/hostel/restaurant. At El Quetzal, Barbara and her husband (and their adorably precocious 11-year old daughter, Emily) made their own chocolate and offered up some of the best brownies (and coffee)  I have ever had the highly caffeinated pleasure to enjoy. And Susan and Luis told us how they had met in the Peace Corps in Quito in 1987 and returned to Ecuador to open up Caskaffesu after braving 15 cold Chicago winters.

And this is probably my favorite thing about traveling, how quickly you can fall into exciting conversations with people about things like life paths and life choices, and how open they are to sharing their stories with you. Which can be almost as inspiring as the scenery, or at least a nicely complementing balance!!!

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