My green fishbowl has been replaced with a roomful of bodies. There are 10 of us in the dorm room I´m sharing at Hotel Oasis, a pretty, well run, rather oasis-like hostel in Granada where I´ve come to spend just a few days. I am well aquainted with hostels by now, the explosion of overstuffed backpacks by bedsides; the hilarity of so many bodies sprawled in various states of conked out slumber; the waking up to the sounds of zippers being zipped and unzipped in frantic search of morning toiletries. I know it but am always amused when I wake up in it, especially in a top bunk (seriously).
As accustomed (addicted?) as I´ve grown to my little fishbowl and the quiet farm at Equilibrio it is good to get out a bit to actually see the country. Historic Granada is Nicaragua´s oldest colonial town situated on beautiful Lago de Nicaragua, a mere 20 minute walk down touristy Calle La Calzada, full of colorful carved colonial facades and restaurants and pubs. After 2 weeks in rural sleepy Salinas and kids bicycling past who know my name, it is shocking to be a town with so many options - including of course the requiste O´Hanlon´s.
My first stop after settling into the hostel is plaza Parque Cathedral because I am starving and excited to try Granada´s famous vigoron (which I will admit includes a fair amount of fried pork rind in addition to steamed yucca and cabbage salad). It is lucky too because this is where I meet Harry who comes to my table to sweet talk me into buying a map or a carefully origamied palm leaf. I want neither but decide this is a good chance to practice my Spanish and there´s something about Harry I immediately like. Maybe it´s his thorough knowledge of the map of his city, maybe it´s the sheepish way he tells me his name is short for Harrison, as in Harrison Ford, ¨the actor.¨ It´s obvious he has no idea who that is.
Harry is the one to point out Calle La Calzada just across the Plaza. I´d been so focused on lunch I hadn´t even noted it. He encourages me to visit the Cathedral then take La Calzada all the way to the lake (¨es muy bonita!¨) and I ask him if wants to come along. We are a fine pair this 12 year old boy and I walking down the street. We buy gelatos (holy shit - I am so excited for ice cream!!!) then stop at Iglesia La Granada before continuing on. When I take out my camera, he shyly smiles for a picture then tells me to be careful and put my camera away ¨porque es peligroso.¨
I find I feel safer with Harry at my side and happy for his cheerful company. When we reach the lake, Harry suggests a boat ride to see Las Isletas, the compilation of 350 little islands formed once upon a time by an eruption of nearby Volcan Mombacho. Harry grew up in Granada but has only ever been there himself once - a long long time ago, he tells me. So he tags along and it is just us in the small boat island-hopping and egret-watching with our two boatmen.
The sun is beginning to set by the time we return. We part a bit later, back at the Plaza after a quick dinner - chicken tacos for him, mango papaya orange smoothie for me. ¨Mucho gusto¨ we say shaking hands good-bye. I tell him I´m really glad I met him and he made my first day in Granada really fun. He smiles at me, says thank you and heads off to join the other boys already gathered there in the gathering darkness, selling maps and origamied palm leaves.
As accustomed (addicted?) as I´ve grown to my little fishbowl and the quiet farm at Equilibrio it is good to get out a bit to actually see the country. Historic Granada is Nicaragua´s oldest colonial town situated on beautiful Lago de Nicaragua, a mere 20 minute walk down touristy Calle La Calzada, full of colorful carved colonial facades and restaurants and pubs. After 2 weeks in rural sleepy Salinas and kids bicycling past who know my name, it is shocking to be a town with so many options - including of course the requiste O´Hanlon´s.
My first stop after settling into the hostel is plaza Parque Cathedral because I am starving and excited to try Granada´s famous vigoron (which I will admit includes a fair amount of fried pork rind in addition to steamed yucca and cabbage salad). It is lucky too because this is where I meet Harry who comes to my table to sweet talk me into buying a map or a carefully origamied palm leaf. I want neither but decide this is a good chance to practice my Spanish and there´s something about Harry I immediately like. Maybe it´s his thorough knowledge of the map of his city, maybe it´s the sheepish way he tells me his name is short for Harrison, as in Harrison Ford, ¨the actor.¨ It´s obvious he has no idea who that is.
Harry is the one to point out Calle La Calzada just across the Plaza. I´d been so focused on lunch I hadn´t even noted it. He encourages me to visit the Cathedral then take La Calzada all the way to the lake (¨es muy bonita!¨) and I ask him if wants to come along. We are a fine pair this 12 year old boy and I walking down the street. We buy gelatos (holy shit - I am so excited for ice cream!!!) then stop at Iglesia La Granada before continuing on. When I take out my camera, he shyly smiles for a picture then tells me to be careful and put my camera away ¨porque es peligroso.¨
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| Walking with Harry |
The sun is beginning to set by the time we return. We part a bit later, back at the Plaza after a quick dinner - chicken tacos for him, mango papaya orange smoothie for me. ¨Mucho gusto¨ we say shaking hands good-bye. I tell him I´m really glad I met him and he made my first day in Granada really fun. He smiles at me, says thank you and heads off to join the other boys already gathered there in the gathering darkness, selling maps and origamied palm leaves.
1 comment:
I welled up after reading this. I think it is the vision of you and Harry in a boat visiting little islands - that he himself has not seen since he is little (and he himself- only 12). To not only welcome him into your day - but it seems like - you both shared this incredible, simple experience together - you gave him as much of a gift as he did you.
Very cool. So perfect.
I am excited this has become about finding the path with in and not conquering the ground around you - BUT always open to explore it - (the physical) finding out what it next before coming home - is an interesting idea- because it leaves all doors open - as of now - and the slow closing of the ones that need not be looked into
just yet - and the ones that feel more urgent - opened wide and explored.
Come to colorado then, before you come home :) I have this fantasy of you meeting a handsome entrepreneur out here when we go to the brewery in boulder - and you decide to stay - for a while :) We have gone back to one of our favorite places in boulder after our last 2 hikes here - and always land up talking to interesting cute guys. I always think of you.
I am now working on my update for this past month. So full it has been. (i am feeling better - also - all back to normal- wahoo).
I can not wait for you to see the pix. OH and i will finally see yours today too - now that i am home - and not feverish :)
xoxoxo
love you (lots and lots!!!)
Gabrielle
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